I'll admit it: I loathed loafers for the longest time. As someone who wears a size 12, they somehow shrunk my feet to disproportionate levels. I looked like a bowling pin inverted. But then I busted out a pair of Cole Haan loafers I was loaned — and, you guessed it, never returned — for senior prom. Some dust aside, they fit and felt good. I wore them out to dinner and spotted several others in varying, albeit similar, styles. (Bonus points for my well-worn pair.)
But what's driving the loafer boom now? Why's he wearing them too? Is it sneaker fatigue? A newfound desire to dress up again? Streetwear's diffusion into everyday styles? Who knows — probably a mix of it all.
Needless to say, the traditional style once saved for businessmen and Europeans uninterested in sneakers is booming, with more options to choose from. Whether you're returning to the category or dipping your toes for the first time, here's our guide to the most popular styles: Belgian, tassel, Horsebit, penny and lug loafers.
Belgian
Henri Bendel — the same retailer who brought Chanel and Balenciaga stateside — birthed the style when he approached cobblers directly to produce shoes his particular way; they were stitched inside out and then turned right ways to ensure a smooth stitch. He launched a company off their success — Belgian Shoes — and the Belgian loafer's ascension began. Yes, they've endured but have largely faded from popular wear, and in most cases been replaced by the bulkier penny loafer. As such, these are dressier shoes but are still deserving of wear.
Black Marphy Deerskin Leather Tassel Loafers
Rubinacci
The Rake
$450.00
First debuted in 2005, Rubinacci's deerskin leather loafers are some of the softest on the market. They're supple yet sturdy, and merge the malleability of a slipper with the elegance of a Belgian loafer. Can't decide between a few styles? These are the ideal hybrid.
The Rake
Taupe Sagan Gingko Loafers
Baudoin and Lange
The Rake
$610.00
To be frank, few manufacturers make Belgian loafers like Baudoin and Lange. In fact, Belgians are their speciality, and they seldom step outside their lane. These, they say, are inspired by "early Tokyo mornings." Gentle yet gentlemanly, these Taupe loafers are made-to-order in the UK from supple deerskin and feature a Ginkgo leaf cutout where the typical penny slot would be — which is how Penny loafers earned their name.
The Rake
Moss Glove Sagan Stride Loafers
Baudoin and Lange
therake.com
$385.00
Soft glove suede and a rubber sole make these Baudoin and Lange loafers significantly more comfortable than other iterations. They're subtle, boast a slimmer profile and yet can withstand the duties of an everyday sneaker.
The Rake
Black Tie Sagan Classic Loafers
Baudoin and Lange
therake.com
$630.00
Belgian loafers are the ideal dress shoe. We're talking real dress attire here — tuxedo and cummerbund type of dressing up. As such, if you're going to buy Belgians, your best bet might be to invest in an elevated, ultra-lux pair like Baudoin and Lange's Black Tie Sagan Loafers, sleek and shiny shoes cut from black patent calf leather.
The Rake
Tassel
The origins of the tassel are less transparent. Some state the first-ever pair was probably an import, a one-off piece someone returned from a trip with. Word spreads quick, as we all know, and subsequent spin-offs appeared in all of the major metropolises. Officially, Alden was the first to make a "tassel loafer" — they coined the term — but then they made editions for retailers like Brooks Brothers. Nowadays tassels offer an extra something to an otherwise plain pair of shoes.
Oxblood Tassel Loafer
Fred Perry x George Cox
endclothing.com
$159.00
A collaboration between Fred Perry and footwear designer George Cox, who's a big fan of Creeper soles, these oxblood-colored tassel loafers trade the typical heel — some diehards say loafers must have one — for a flat, crepe sole. Yes, that sole renders them both more reliable and comfortable, but it doesn't lessen the luxuriousness.
End Clothing
Heath Goodyear-Welted Suede Tassel Loafers
Mr. P
mrporter.com
$575.00
Mr. Porter's in-house label Mr. P has slowly expanded its repertoire to include sneakers and now these Goodyear-welted Italian suede tassel loafers, too. Even though they're suede, they can withstand usual wear and tear and offer a more substantial silhouette than most others on this list.
Mr Porter
William Tassel Loafers
Scarosso
farfetch.com
$265.00
Scarosso's simple William loafers are subdued without being dull. They're a rich, deep brown with tonal stitching and an almond — aka semi-pointed — toe. There hints of red but not quite oxblood.
Farfetch
Grayson Tassel Loafer
Allen Edmonds
allenedmonds.com
$395.00
A-ha. You knew we'd put a brown pair on this list, didn't you? Dubbed "walnut," these are a lighter hue that'll patina as they're put through it. Cork insoles offer comfortability, and the welted 97 Last outsole can be redrafted once worn down.
Allen Edmonds
Horsebit
Gucci created the horsebit loafer as an homage to their saddle-making business. They manufactured a miniature version of the equestrian tool called a snaffle bit and placed it on the upper of their signature loafer (a loose term for a slip-on shoe). The move was rich as hell and remains a luxurious look. In fact, Horsebit is a term that only describes pairs done by other brands. The style, it seems, is uniquely Gucci's.
Jordaan Horsebit Loafer
The Horsebit loafer as we know it know was simply the Gucci loafer at its inception. Gucci recognized the popularity of the loafer, added the horsebit as an homage to company's history as a saddle manufactory and melded European and American designs for something unique to their label. It stuck, and now the category can be more broadly referred to the Horsebit style — but the real ones know they were born from Gucci's ingenious.
Nordstrom
The Mason Horsebit Loafer
Blackstock and Weber
blackstockandweber.com
$325.00
Blackstock and Weber founder Chris Echevarria transforms storied silhouettes into stylish modern takes. Yes, these are true to form: they have an elevated heel, a spin on the horsebit and a pebble grain leather upper. However, he's one of the foremost individuals rewriting how loafers can and should be worn. And he's doing a damn good job.
Blackstock & Weber
Condor Leather Loafers
Salvatore Ferragamo
farfetch.com
$795.00
"The Condor" feels like a fitting name for these Salvatore Ferragamo loafers. Slim and upstanding and luxurious yet low profile, they fit within higher-end fashion fits and formalwear fluidly.
Farfetch
Wine Lincoln Easy Weejuns
G.H. Bass & Co.
ghbass.com
$110.00
G.H. Bass' Weejuns were an easy-going upgrade on a staple British fisherman had seen on trips to Norway — hence the phonetic translations from Norwegian to Weejun. The shoes were basically loafers, but Bass added the penny slot and thus the category was born. Their Lincoln Easy iteration is the aforementioned but with a Horsebit instead.
G.H. Bass
Penny
A Norwegian shoemaker conceptualized the earliest penny loafer, sources say. But it was the company G.H. Bass that popularized it stateside. They put a "saddle" of leather across the upper — their signature, if you will. They dubbed the original iteration a Weejun — a phonetic reference to Norwegian — but they colloquially became known as Penny Loafers; dueling theories both attribute the term to prep school students.
The Ellis Penny Loafer
Blackstock and Weber
blackstockandweber.com
$325.00
Tuxedo-toned. I mean, that's what they are. Blackstock and Weber's The Ellis loafers are an impressive upgrade on "a staple, but not like the joints your pops had," designer Chris Echevarria explains. They're constructed from black and white pebble leather, a lush red liner and a leather insole.
Blackstock & Weber
Dylan Bone Suede Loafers
Allen Edmonds
allenedmonds.com
$325.00
Don't be fooled. Loafers can be casual! Maybe they shouldn't be worn with sweatpants, but these suede Allen Edmonds loafers go well with jeans, broken-in chino pants and even fatigues. They've also been adjusted to give the wearer a bit more room in the footbed — making these ideal for those with wider feet or a more relaxed look.
Allen Edmonds
ALD Suede Penny Loafers
Aimé Leon Dore
aimeleondore.com
$245.00
"It ain't easy being green." But in these it is! Streetwear darling Aimé Leon Dore also makes a rotating collection of penny loafers in eclectic colors. These are two shades of green atop a black, logo-embossed outsole.
Aimé Leon Dore
Stitched Leather Penny Loafers
Stefan Cooke
matchesfashion.com
$395.00
Although they've been tweaked to menswear designer Stefan Cooke's liking, these are still true to the penny loafer style: button's been slipped into the penny slot, white leather needlework adorns the outside and a heel remains — although it's been elevated (literally) to be a bit blockier.
Matches Fashion
Lug
There's no real history here. Putting a lug sole on a loafer probably happened out of necessity; a "we have these shoes, but there's snow!" kind of situation. Perhaps it was a fashion statement. Either way, finding loafers equipped with Goodyear-welted soles or Vibram tread proves increasingly common. Plus, they're more flattering for feet of all sizes — especially as pants silhouettes trend bigger.
Adrian Smooth Leather Loafers
Dr. Martens
drmartens.com
$130.00
If you're someone who has (impressively) endured breaking in a pair of Doc Martens boots, these loafers will be a breeze. They're built with a similar outsole, are cut from the same sturdy leather and yet feature more delicate elements like tassels and a kilt-ish fringe.
Dr. Martens
Walden Chunky Sole Loafers
CamperLab
farfetch.com
$252.00
CamperLab's tonal chunky sole loafers offer the same minimalist aesthetic as finer manufacturers like Hender Scheme at half the price. Sure, these aren't for everyone, but they're arguably some of the best at this price point. Plus, the raw material was sourced from a certified Leather Working Group tannery.
Farfetch
Layton Super Lug Tassel Weejuns
G.H. Bass & Co.
ghbass.com
$130.00
Think of these as a cross between three of the categories on this list: lug sole, penny and tassel. You clearly see the dangly adornment, and the thick, boot-like bottom, but the overall look nods to the original Weejun, which popularized the penny loafer beyond Norway's borders.
G.H. Bass
Steel Toe Grain Leather Loafer
Our Legacy
endclothing.com
$485.00
No, these aren't technically lug sole loafers. They do, however, have a steel toe reminiscent of motorcycle gear, a Goodyear-welted Vibram sole and a thicker, kilt-fringe top. These look and act tough.
End Clothing